Blog #33 Meg Swansen on Seamless Yoke Sweaters
The emphasis of this video is to demonstrate how to set-up and weave the underarms of a circular yoke sweater, resulting in a neat and comfortable seamless join. The pullover I am working on in this video, the Weekend Raglan, is available in Wool Gathering issue 105 and follows EPS construction guidelines (Elizabeth’s Percentage System).
To assure plenty of room and elasticity (thus: comfort) at the underarms, I place between 8 - 10% of the number of total body stitches onto threads at the tops of the sleeves, and sides of the body. Please note that I do not cast off those stitches, which would make a thick, static, uncomfortable and unyielding seam in an area where the wearer needs space and flexibility.
If you are new to weaving (also called grafting or Kitchener stitch), it is worth your time to make a set of practice-swatches:
With thick(ish) wool, cast on 17 stitches (the number in this photo example).
Knit back and forth for 2 ridges of garter-stitch (4 rows).
Switch to stocking stitch (k over, p back), but keep the first and last 3 sts in garter-stitch to prevent curling. Work for a total of about 3 inches.
Make another one.
On each swatch, secure the raw stitches at their base by overcasting multiple times with strong sewing thread (see the white threads in the photo?).
Now, with a blunt sewing-up needle, you can practice weaving - both on and off the needles - over and over again…until you can do it in your sleep.
When you weave off the needles (as in the photo image), you clearly can see exactly what you are doing, and will never again by mystified by this beautifully rhythmic and hypnotic skill.
If you make your swatches wider, you can increase the number of garter-stitches at each end, and also practice garter-stitch weaving on the same swatch.
Good Knitting, Meg